A Journey to South Luangwa National Park
Zambia had been on my bucket list for at least 10 years. Initially, I had overlooked this landlocked country, as it didn't frequently make it onto the top safari park lists. However, a Christmas spent with a family friend changed my perspective. His mother, who had grown up in Zambia, spoke passionately about the wild beauty of the "green season" when the rains came, and the warmth and friendliness of the Zambian people. This conversation sparked my curiosity and prompted me to plan my journey to this captivating destination.
I chose to travel with Robin Pope Safaris, a renowned operator in Zambia with properties in Zimbabwe and Malawi, and their own group of lodges in South Luangwa National Park. Established in 1986 by Robin Pope, the company has built a reputation for its intimate bush camps and walking safaris, offering a unique and immersive wildlife experience.
Getting There
Traveling from Jersey in the Channel Islands, UK, required a bit more planning as there are no direct flights from London to Zambia. Options include flying via Johannesburg with British Airways, Dubai with Emirates, or Doha with Qatar Airways to Lusaka. From Lusaka, a short flight to Mfuwe Airport, the gateway to South Luangwa National Park, is necessary. Since I have family in Johannesburg, I chose the British Airways route. Both flights were overnight, allowing me to maximize my time at the destination.
Upon arrival at Lusaka Airport, Robin Pope Safaris had arranged for Tours Africa to meet me. They provided a cosy lounge with good Wi-Fi, tea, coffee, and snacks while I waited for my onward flight. A representative ensured I boarded my next flight on time, eliminating the stress of clock-watching. The flight to Mfuwe, which varies from 45 minutes to just over an hour depending on the aircraft, was smooth and well-coordinated by ProFlight.
Looking out over the fabulous Luangwa river.
South Luangwa National Park: History and Conservation
South Luangwa National Park, one of Zambia's premier safari destinations, spans over 9,000 square kilometers in the eastern part of the country. Established as a game reserve in 1938 and later declared a national park in 1972, South Luangwa boasts one of the highest concentrations of wildlife in Africa. The park is renowned for its walking safaris, pioneered by Norman Carr in the 1950s, which offer an intimate and immersive wildlife experience.
The Luangwa River, the lifeblood of the park, attracts diverse species, including large populations of elephants, hippos, and crocodiles. The park is also home to unique species such as the Thornicroft's giraffe and the Cookson's wildebeest, found only in the Luangwa Valley.
Conservation efforts in South Luangwa are robust and multifaceted. The park works closely with organizations like the Zambia Carnivore Programme and Conservation South Luangwa to monitor and protect its wildlife. Anti-poaching units, community engagement, and sustainable tourism practices are key components of these efforts. Despite challenges, these initiatives have led to significant successes, including the stabilization of lion and wild dog populations and the reduction of poaching incidents.
South Luangwa's commitment to conservation ensures that it remains a pristine and vibrant habitat, offering visitors a glimpse into the raw beauty and rich biodiversity of Zambia's wilderness.
Accommodation Experiences
Our first stop was Luangwa Safari House, an exclusive property owned and run by Robin Pope Safaris with four bedrooms, a dining/sitting area, plunge pool and lovely decked walk way into a platform overlooking the riverbed. It’s perfect for a group of friends of families with older children, though it does have some safety hazards such as open staircases, making it unsuitable for younger children.
June is a quieter time for wildlife due to the cooler temperatues, with sightings improving in July and August as the park dries up and animals gather around waterholes.
However, we saw plenty of plains game with puku, impala, Baboons, hippos, crocs and stunning bird life from the saddle-billed storks to the lilac-breasted rollers and European bee-eaters. This was actually my first time seeing the puku antelopes as they only reside in Congo, Namibia, Tanzania, Zambia and the Okovango Delta so i tick off the list for me there. Morning tea & coffee and evening sundowners were spent over looking the stunning Luangwa River.
We also went for a little look around of the beautiful Kafunta River Lodge with its elegant laid back style, large open main area with plenty of seating space and a lovely pool to cool off at. The 8 chalets means a total of only 20 guests maximum, which although more then most of the lodges in the area is still a nice intimate size. Rooms were modern and comfortable and there was a lovely family duplex family room with plenty of space for the kids.
Our next night was at Chikunto Safari Lodge. This is quite a new camp, just a few years old with a stunning main area and some of the best food we had on the trip. We were even welcomed with a wonderful foot massage, an absolute treat which instantly relaxes you and if i had had longer I would have absolutely tried the traditional Zambian massage. They also have a wonderful star bed platform so you can sleep under the stars for a night (pre-book) and they had a great set up for photographers in the vehicles with camera rests on moveable arms which can swing round in front of you giving you a perfectly steady shot no matter the angle. They also had a little photography studio so you can edit and print your photo’s straight from the camp. There was a lot of things i loved, however during lunch we did hear a gunshot across the river and were informed there was a hunting concession there. Although they aren’t meant to shoot within a certain parameter of the river side hearing a gunshot when you are there to see the fabulous wildlife is quite heart-wrenching and a big reminder of Zambia going back on their law to ban hunting which was sadly only in place for a short time.
The hunters had been something i had noticed on the flight, with some talking about what they were going to hunt and others in their camoflage and checking in their rifles. For me it’s something difficult to stomach and has always been a big reason behind my support of tourism to Kenya and Botswana, the only two countries in Africa which have completely banned hunting. But there are arguments for it and much of the money does go into conservation. A topic to be argued in another post..
From here we also did a quick lookaround of Nkwali Camp also by Robin Pope Safaris, if you book onto their mobile walking safaris this will be your first night stop off on the itinerary as it’s a good stop over between the airport and north of the park where the multi-day walking safaris take place from. The rooms have recently be rennovated to a good standard and with only 6 chalets this is a peaceful and homely camp with great views of the river. One of the aspects of this camp worth noting is that the rooms aren’t fully enclosed, you do have a mosquito net so protected from any night time bugs and there are canvas sides up to a couple of metres high but, keeping out the larger game but if it’s your first safari and not sure how comfortable you’ll be in the bush it might not be for you.
We also stopped in on the beautiful Luangwa River Camp, again a Robin Pope Safaris property. The main area has recently been renovated with a much more modern and light feel, more of a beach side guest house then one in the middle of the bush, some of the pictures on the website are pre-refurbishment so don’t do it justice. Another small camp, just 5 rooms make the 10 guests maximum a personal and laid back experience. The rooms are also beautifully done and it had a lovely swimming pool looking out to the river. This one is certainly on my come-back-to-stay-at the list!
Two of my favourite lodges which we went to have a look at were the Shenton Safari camps, Kaingo and Mwamba. Created by the Shenton Family, a family of wildlife conservationists spanning three generations, the homely vibe can be felt throughout the camps. Kaingo, built in 1992 has 6 beautiful chalets along the river banks, there is also a stunning floating lounge area to relax in during the day and their Elephant Hide Star Bed where you can sleep under the stars of just enjoy the stunning tree house viewing platform above the Luangea River. Mwamba was built in 1995 on the site of an old poachers’ campsite; the camp has just 4 newly renovated guest rooms, with a stunning bar built around a huge leadwood tree, a lounge area overlooking a waterhole, and a fabulous sundowner viewing platform as well as a hide right next to camp with 3 different viewing areas ideal for getting the perspective depending on who comes down to take a drink. Both camps also have access to the hippo hide, built at water level on the banks of the Luangwa River it’s a fabulous spot for watching the resident hippo pods go about their day.
The amazing bar at Mwamba Camp
Before our two days walking and bushcamping we stayed at Robin Pope’s Nsefu camp, the first safari camp in Zambia. The lodge offers charm, history and exclusive comfort in one of the best locations in South Luangwa National Park. Due to its history, the rooms must remain from the outside exactly as they were when the camp was first built which does mean they are a little close to each other, however, they have been kept up-to-date with their comfort levels and the camp is in a stunning remote spot, we saw elephants daily around camp, puku, impala, giraffe, hippo’s and even a mother leopard and her two-month-old cubs came down to drink. Infact we saw a total of 6 leopards around the lodge during our time there, the mother and her cubs, a leopard off hunting, another with a baboon kill in a tree and then another come and fight the leopard off the baboon kill. Some incredible sightings all within 100 metres of the lodge.
We then embarked on our two day walking safari with a night at a bush camp set on the banks of the river. This mobile camp had 3 standup tents, 2 toilet tents with long drop toilets and a shower tent with a bucket shower which would be loaded up with hot water on request, we even had hot water in our canvas basins in the morning so there was no compromising on comfort. Lunch had been delivered from Nsefu Camp, and dinner was cooked on the fire, a fantastic experience and a great taster of the mobile walking camps on offer.
Our last two nights were spent at one of my favorite camps of the trip, the beautiful tented Tena Tena Camp, another recently renovated camp under the Robin Pope Collection, and the only tented camp. The rooms are spacious with very comfortable beds, fans and huge open aired bathrooms. The main area was also a delight set over a few tiers and chairs shaped out of old tree trunks, it gives plenty of areas for guests to relax and the elephants came by daily for so great day time wildlife watching. A wonderful last stop in our weeks adventure and a place to take in all that we’d seen.
The beautiful lounge and bar area at Tena Tena Camp
Wildlife Experiences in South Luangwa
South Luangwa National Park is renowned for exceptional wildlife experiences. Spanning over 9,000 square kilometres, the park is a sanctuary for diverse fauna including large populations of elephants, hipps and the endemic Thoricroft giraffe. It’s also famed for it’s incredibly relaxed leopards, and its one of the best areas in Africa for a sighting of these beautiful and usually elusive creatures. Bird enthusiasts are able to find over 400 bird species, making it a bird watchers paradise. It’s also renowed for its walking safaris, allowing guests to explore the wilderness on foot.
Being in the southern hemisphere their June and July is the colder months starting to get warmer in August and September and then very hot by October, most of the camps are closed from November through to April due to the rains making many roads impassible, although some boating safari opportunities are availble. We were there in June so it was one of the colder months and for the first few days it was cloudy and quite windy so the animals were hiding out keeping warm. However we did enjoy plenty of antelopes, baboons, bird life and of course the many hippo’s and crocs enjoying the river which runs through the park. As the week continued the weather started to improve and as we headed north from the main gate the zebras, giraffes, elephants, buffalos and leopards started to appear. We didn’t manage to see the lions in the 7 days we were there but did see plenty of tracks so they are about. Packs of wild dogs are also often found around the park, however the travel such vast distances they can be there one day and unable to be found the next.
Although we’d had a slow start to our wildlife viewing, each leopard sighting i had was incredible. We had the mother with her young cubs drinking from the waterhole at Nsefu, we then jumped in the vehicle and watched them cross the road infront of us. We had another leopard off on a hunt and a clear view of them walking through the bush. The other leopard at Nsefu lodge which was eating the baboon up in the tree, although slightly covered in branches was still clear to see and to watch the other leopard come out of the bushes, climb the tree and then fight the first leopard off the kill was incredible and then see that leopard climb down again. From Tena Tena camp we watched a leopard walking through a beautiful valley before walking straight by the game vehicle and hiding in a bush hoping to catch a baboon walk past, although after half an hour her stalk was ruined by a weaver bird alarm calling giving away her hiding spot to the baboon troop walking by. Our last sighting was the hunting leopards cub lying draped over a branch up a tree, with no branches in the way we had the classic leopard sleeping sighting. They were all amazing opportunities to watch these stunning cats and learning about their way of life.
A stunning female leopard walking next to the safari car near Tena Tena lodge
Walking Safari Experience and Bush Camp
During our time in South Luangwa, we experienced a two-day walking safari with an overnight stay at one of Robin Pope’s bushcamps. Robin Pope offers several walking safari opportunities in the park. Our journey between Nsefu and Tena Tena camp could be a one or two-night bush camping adventure, or you could opt for a 5 or 7-night mobile camping and walking experience in the northern part of the park, where you truly immerse yourself in the wilderness of South Luangwa. The bush camps are moved daily to the next location, along with your main bags, allowing you to walk with just a day pack.
For our taster trip, we left Nsefu Camp after breakfast around 6:30 AM, making the most of the cooler temperatures for our approximately 3-hour walk to our bushcamp for the night. Along the way, we saw puku, impala, giraffes, and even some of the ‘Small 5,’ including the buffalo weaver and the elephant shrew, as well as some of the ‘Green 5,’ like the leopard orchid and rhino thorn. We also learned to identify various animal tracks, enhancing our understanding of the wildlife.
Walking through the bush on foot, away from the vehicle, offers a unique experience of being immersed in nature. Learning about animal tracks and medicinal plants and walking the same paths as the animals gives you a deeper connection to the wild. Seeing animals like giraffes and elephants from this more vulnerable and equal footing makes you feel closer to them, even if you are not as near as you would be in a vehicle.
During the morning walk, we stopped for snacks and tea and arrived at the camp around 10 AM. The camp, set among the trees overlooking the river, consisted of three basic safari tents, two toilet tents, and a shower. Surprisingly, there was a full bar set up, along with a table and chairs for relaxation. We spent time on the riverbanks reading and enjoying the beautiful spot before a delicious lunch from Nsefu camp and a well-deserved siesta. On our afternoon walk, we were fortunate to see an elephant herd from a safe distance while standing on a large termite mound, providing a great view. The afternoon walk lasted about two hours.
Dinner was a delicious BBQ cooked over the fire, enjoyed before an early night. Flashlights were provided for moving between the toilet tent and the bedroom tent at night, and a bucket was available if animals were present in the camp.
We woke to early morning light and hot water poured into our canvas basins outside the tent for a warm face wash, an unexpected luxury. After a breakfast of porridge and toast, we left the camp to walk to Tena Tena camp, our final stop on the tour. It felt quite an achievement to reach the next camp on foot.
This taster experience left me eager to join the 5-day tour in the north of the park, away from other lodges and human inhabitants, fully embracing the wilds of South Luangwa National Park.
Walking in South Luangwa National Park with Robin Pope Safaris
Day-to-Day Schedule
The daily schedule seems to be the same throughout South Luangwa with a typical day going:
5:30am wake up call
6am breakfast
6:30 depart on morning game drive
10:30 - 11:00 approximately depending on what you’ve seen
11:30 Brunch & rest time
3:30 afternoon tea
4pm depart on afternoon game drive
7pm return to camp depending on what you see
The sun sets around 5:30 to 6pm when the guides stop for sundowners and then you enjoy a night game drive back to camp.
Brief Overview of Camps Visited
Luangwa River Camp by Robin Pope Safaris
A lovely modern camp with just 5 rooms, we only visited for a quick look around so didn’t get to experience the food but really friendly staff and a very laid back, intimate atmosphere, i would happily book to come back and stay.
Quick Facts on Luangwa River Camp:
5 Bush Suites - 1 double & 4 twin rooms which can be made into doubles
Wifi: Limited wifi during certain hours and mostly around the main areas.
Max Guests: 10
Minimum Age: 7+ years
Meal Plan: All Inclusive meals and drinks
Activities:
Walking Safaris
Game Drives (day & night)
Cultural / village tour
Visit local market
Open: 1st April - 30th November
Getting There: 1 hour road transfer from Mfuwe Airport
Nkwali Camp by Robin Pope Safaris
Nkwali Camp, located in South Luangwa National Park, offers a blend of comfort and wilderness, providing guests with an authentic safari experience amidst stunning wildlife and landscapes.
Quick Facts on Nkwali Camp
Number and Type of Rooms: 6 chalets (including 1 family room)
WiFi Availability: Available in the main area
Max Guests: 12
Minimum Age: 7 years
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, village visits, seasonal boating
Dates Open: Year-round
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: It is approximately 45-minute drive from Mfuwe Airport to the camp
Luangwa Safari House by Robin Pope Safaris
Luangwa Safari House, located in South Luangwa National Park, offers a luxurious and exclusive safari experience with breathtaking views and personalized service in a stunning natural setting.
Quick Facts on Luangwa Safari House
Number and Type of Rooms: 4 en-suite bedrooms in a private house
WiFi Availability: Available
Max Guests: 8
Minimum Age: None
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included), private chef
Activities: Private game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, village visits, seasonal boating
Dates Open: Year-round
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 45-minute drive from Mfuwe Airport to the house
Luangwa Safari House offers an unparalleled safari experience with exclusive use of the property, ensuring privacy and personalized activities in the heart of South Luangwa National Park.
Nsefu Camp, one of the original camps in South Luangwa National Park, provides an authentic and historic safari experience with exceptional wildlife viewing and charming accommodations.
Quick Facts for Nsefu Camp
Number and Type of Rooms: 6 rondavels (round huts)
WiFi Availability: Not available
Max Guests: 12
Minimum Age: 12 years
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, seasonal boating
Dates Open: June to November
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 1.5-hour drive from Mfuwe Airport to the camp
Nsefu Camp combines historical charm with modern comforts, offering guests a unique and memorable safari experience in one of the most wildlife-rich areas of South Luangwa National Park.
Tena Tena Camp by Robin Pope Safaris
Tena Tena Camp, situated in the remote and game-rich Nsefu sector of South Luangwa National Park, offers an exclusive and intimate safari experience with excellent wildlife viewing and luxurious amenities.
Quick Facts for Tena Tena
Number and Type of Rooms: 6 safari tents
WiFi Availability: Available in the main area
Max Guests: 12
Minimum Age: 12 years
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, seasonal boating
Dates Open: May to October
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 1.5-hour drive from Mfuwe Airport to the camp
Tena Tena Camp provides a secluded and upscale safari experience, with a focus on high-quality wildlife encounters and personalized service in the heart of South Luangwa National Park.
Kafunta River Lodge, located on the edge of South Luangwa National Park, offers a luxurious safari experience with panoramic views of the floodplain and access to abundant wildlife.
Quick Facts for Kafunta River Lodge
Number and Type of Rooms: 10 chalets (including 2 luxury suites)
WiFi Availability: Available in the main area
Max Guests: 20
Minimum Age: None
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, hot springs visits, cultural tours
Dates Open: April to January
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 45-minute drive from Mfuwe Airport to the lodge
Kafunta River Lodge offers a comfortable and upscale safari experience, combining luxurious accommodations with a wide range of activities and stunning views of South Luangwa National Park.
Chikunto Safari Lodge, situated along the banks of the Luangwa River in South Luangwa National Park, provides a luxurious and intimate safari experience with exceptional wildlife viewing opportunities and modern amenities.
Quick Facts
Number and Type of Rooms: 5 tents (including 1 family tent)
WiFi Availability: Available in the main area
Max Guests: 12
Minimum Age: 6 years
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, stargazing, cultural visits
Dates Open: March to January
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 2-hour drive from Mfuwe Airport to the lodge
Chikunto Safari Lodge offers a luxurious and exclusive safari experience, with personalized service, modern accommodations, and a prime location for exploring the wildlife-rich areas of South Luangwa National Park.
Mwamba Camp by Shenton Safaris
Mwamba Camp, operated by Shenton Safaris, is a remote and intimate bush camp in South Luangwa National Park, offering an authentic wilderness experience with superb wildlife viewing and rustic charm.
Quick Facts for Mwamba Camp
Number and Type of Rooms: 4 reed and thatch chalets
WiFi Availability: Not available, however coming soon
Max Guests: 8
Minimum Age: 12 years
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, hide photography
Dates Open: June to October
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 2-hour drive from Mfuwe Airport to the camp
Mwamba Camp provides an immersive and authentic safari experience, focusing on close encounters with wildlife and personalized service in a secluded and picturesque setting in South Luangwa National Park.
Kaingo Camp by Shenton Safaris
Kaingo Camp, operated by Shenton Safaris, is located in the heart of South Luangwa National Park, offering a blend of comfort and adventure with prime wildlife viewing and excellent photographic opportunities.
Quick Facts for Kaingo Camp
Number and Type of Rooms: 6 chalets (including 1 honeymoon suite)
WiFi Availability: Available in the main area
Max Guests: 12
Minimum Age: 12 years
Meal Plan: Full board (all meals included)
Activities: Game drives, walking safaris, bird watching, hide photography, night drives
Dates Open: May to October
Getting There from Mfuwe Airport: Approximately 1.5-hour drive from Mfuwe Airport to the camp
Kaingo Camp offers a comfortable and intimate safari experience, with personalized service, exceptional wildlife encounters, and unique photographic opportunities in the heart of South Luangwa National Park.
For more info on visiting South Luangwa National Park, e-mail me on info@walkingwildafrica.com